Digital cameras typically produce one of two types of files ? JPGs or RAW files. Most amateurs work with JPGs while most professionals prefer to work with RAW files. Here's why: JPG files are small and can be handled by most commercial programs, even those inexpensive ones you find at Wall Mart and Staples. They are small because they are created by a process called lossy compression. This means that some of the original data is lost, even removed, when the file is created and compressed. If the level of compression is set too high it can cause a real deterioration in image quality (you get to choose the level of compression both inside your camera - the image quality setting - and by using a program such as Photoshop or Photoshop Elements where you will be able to choose the degree of compression applied to your corrected image, usually between a range of 1 to 12, 12 being the least amount of compression). The reason most programs can read and load JPGs is that they have long been the publishing industry?s standard format. The JPG is also the standard format used on the web. So, as you can see, JPG files are very convenient and easy to use. And yes, they can be and are reproduced in glossy magazines. One more thing: each time you save a JPG image you lose a little more quality until finally the image becomes virtually useless. As I already mentioned, small JPG images of less than 100k in size are fine for web use. A computer screen is set up to handle no more than 72 dots per inch (no, I'm not going to get into that here) while publication quality digital images (for newspapers and glossy magazines) require 300 dots per inch. The JPG file can easily handle both applications. But here?s the thing: when your digital camera saves an image in JPG format all of the in-camera settings - color balance, color temperature, white balance, sharpening and so on - are processed by the camera and placed into the file for you. In essence the camera says to itself, "this is what I think he/she would the image to look like, and most of the time it gets it pretty darned close. And this is not necessarily a bad thing because you can still change all of those elements, be it to a somewhat limited degree, in Photoshop or Photoshop Elements, but when you do the quality of the image will deteriorate significantly. RAW files are created by your camera in a proprietary format, unique to each camera manufacturer. They can even be unique to the specific camera model you are using....
Think of a raw image as if it were a piece of film from one of those ancient cameras that you used to use. Just as you could change developer, processing times and processing methods to modify the �look� and aesthetic details of the photo, you can work with the raw image to give you a better starting point before you bring the digital file into your image editing program.
Because Raw files contain a wider gamut of color, the white balance can be corrected without any noticeable loss in detail. Using Raw converters such as the Photoshop Camera Raw plug-in is easier and produces better result. On the other hand, the white balance of JPEG files can be easily corrected without much noticeable loss in detail.
So, you have your RAW images on your computer, but how do you edit them effectively while keeping them in the 16bit domain, since many of Photoshop's functions are disabled at this level?
Open your RAW file in Photoshop (download file for example here) , the usual way you open any image in PS (Ctrl + O or Double click the icon of your image ) , Do not get disappointed if the pic doesn't look great right now , it is our job to get it right , and with Camera RAW the process will be very quick
Back in 2003, Adobe released Camera Raw as a Photoshop plug-in for providing access to the RAW file format that's offered by many prosumer and professional digital cameras on the market today. Camera Raw 3.0 is now available as part of Photoshop CS2 and can be launched from either the new Adobe Bridge or from Photoshop. Watch these two videos to learn about some of the exciting new features of the latest version of Camera Raw.
Back in 2003, Adobe released Camera Raw as a Photoshop plug-in for providing access to the RAW file format that's offered by many prosumer and professional digital cameras on the market today. Camera Raw 3.0 is now available as part of Photoshop CS2 and can be launched from either the new Adobe Bridge or from Photoshop. Watch these two videos to learn about some of the exciting new features of the latest version of Camera Raw.
Yes they are , remember that the camera will delete most bits and brightness levels when it ended processing the image , a RAW file can be 2-6 times heavier than a jpeg picture. The average medium size pics weights 12MB
Under bridge, locate the RAW file you wish to place in as a Smart Object. Select it by clicking on it once and under the File menu go to Place>In Photoshop.
Not having an expensive digital SLR camera is no excuse for ignoring Photoshop's powerful Camera Raw adjustment options. In this tutorial, we will take a look at how we can open our "Point and Shoot" camera images from within this powerful new tool to create stunning photos.
This tutorial will demonstrate yet another technique for converting your color photographs to black and white using Photoshop's powerful new Camera Raw tools.
This tutorial is designed to show you what I have found to be the most effective steps to raw file processing in Adobe Photoshop. Processing your digital camera's raw files is an important step to getting your digital SLR's image to look its best. This Photoshop tutorial isn't going to cover everything you need to get the perfect image but it will give you a head start to getting there. The chosen digital photo for this tutorial is my beloved 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S. The newest car I've ever had the fortune to own. As you can tell from the before and after pictures, raw image manipulation can make a big impact on your photographic presentation. Thank you Adobe!
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The first step is to select your RAW image, and then open it in Photoshop with File -> Open, find your file, and click OK. The Camera RAW dialog should open automatically.
The Adobe Camera Raw plug-in for Photoshop (known as ACR) is a tremendously powerful tool, but can be a little overwhelming at first. Here's one suggestion for taming Camera Raw. It's not the only way to work in Camera Raw, merely a workflow that makes sense in many circumstances.
In 1985, Deke McClelland oversaw the implementation of the first personal computer-based production department in Boulder, Colorado. In 1986, he became the artistic director for Publishing Resources, one of the earliest all-PostScript service bureaus in the United States. Deke McClelland is a well-known expert and lecturer on Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator, InDesign, and the broader realm of computer graphics and design. To date, he has written 85 books that have been translated into 24 languages, with more than 4 million copies in print.
Previous versions of Camera Raw made global changes to an entire image. In Adobe Photoshop?? CS4, you can make adjustments to specific areas of an image using two localized corrections tools. In this tutorial, you'll learn how to make localized corrections using the Adjustment Brush and the Graduated filter.
What if I were to tell you that Camera RAW could evolve from a global environment to a selective one, would you call me nuts? Maybe, maybe not! Using �smart objects� is the key.
This tutorial will deal with Adobe Camera RAW (ACR) version 3.0 that ships with Adobe Photoshop CS2. Most of the functionality is also available in earlier versions of the software that came with Photoshop CS or was available as a plugin for PS 7.