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There are numerous Photoshop presets available for free on the web and using them can prove to be a great time saver. From brushes to styles, from patterns to duotones and everything in between, these have been made available so you don???t have to start reinventing the wheel. Like glossy buttons? It can take you some time to build one up from scratch with layer effects if you haven???t done it before. If the timer is running, you might want to choose one that has already been created, and maybe tweak it until it meets your design's needs.
Low shutter speeds (1/8 of a second up to 30 seconds and beyond) can be used to create a variety of effects�here are just a few: Note: For most of these long exposures a tripod or some other means of keeping the camera perfectly still is necessary to avoid creating unintended blur. 1.) Moving water will look smooth and silky when shot at shutter speeds of 1/8 of a second or more�the longer the exposure the more pronounced the effect. 2.) When photographed at shutter speeds of 2 seconds or greater, car lights will turn into long colourful trails�the longer the exposure, the longer the trails. 3.) When very long exposures are used (15 seconds plus) city lights will often take on a stretched, star-like appearance. 4.) Photographing city lights at shutter speeds of 1/15 of a second, or so, either from a moving vehicle, or while walking, can produce interesting and colourful abstracts (no tripod needed.)
Photography's root comes from the Greek roots "photo" which means light, and "graph" which means to write or scribe. Photography is all about light and how to interact with it. Two basic functions of an SLR camera accomplish this through the aperture and shutter speed. Shutter speed refers to the amount of time that the film, or in the case of a digital SLR, how long the image sensor is exposed to light. Depending on the camera, shutter speeds can vary from 30 seconds to 1/8000 of a second. Some cameras have a 'bulb' mode that allows the user to open and close the shutter manually using a switch. The aperture setting of a camera refers to the amount of light that is let into the camera body by the lens. An iris contracts or expands depending on this setting on the camera, thus controlling the light that hits the film. Aperture terminology may be confusing as the "higher" the aperture, the lower its number. Lenses are rated by their aperture and focal length. For instance, Canon might have an F/2.8 28-75mm lens. The F/ prefix is the highest aperture that the lens can produce. In this case, an aperture of 2.8 is the maximum amount of light that the lens can let in. A lens that has a high aperture is considered a "fast" lens. Shutter speed and aperture values are at a constant tug-of-war concerning light. Suppose someone was a handed a camera and was told that its aperture and shutter settings were set to ensure proper exposure using a shutter speed of 1/60th and an aperture of F/8. However, suppose that they wanted a faster shutter speed to capture a moving object, so they set the shutter speed to 1/250 and took a picture, they would get an underexposed photo because they didn't allow the film to be exposed for the 1/60th of a second it needed. Therefore, they would need to change the aperture to allow more light in, perhaps by changing it to F/1.8, or whatever the maximum aperture of the lens is. It is always good once you have changed your settings to check them with a light meter and see if you are giving enough light for proper exposures. More on Shutters Cameras traditionally have two shutters, or curtains, that cover the film ready to be exposed -- one shutter sits over the film and one rests off to the side. Once the shutter button has been pressed, the first curtain is moved away so that the film is exposed to the light coming through the lens. Once the film has been exposed for the length of the set shutter speed, the second curtain moves into the p...
The final result of your photographic ventures is a roll of film, a handful of prints or box of slides. Other than your choice of lens, the film choice will have the biggest impact on the quality of the final results. Digital Cameras While most of this is irrelevant for digital cameras, "film" speed still applies. In this case the speed affects the noise level rather than grain size but the final result is somewhat similar. Choose the smallest ISO for the required shutter speed, ie to allow hand-held shooting or freezing sports action. Choosing a Film 1. First choice is slide (positive) or print (negative) film. Print greater exposure latitude (some 9 stops vs 5 stops for slide) cheaper easy for prints ideal for cheap compact cameras Slide (also known as reversal or tranparency film) greater colour saturation and contrast (especially professional film) no "middle-man" adjusting colour balance or exposure much easier to digitise requires good camera to obtain correct exposure As slide film has 5 stops of latitude, correct exposure is much more critical than print film. This means the use of a camera with a precision auto-exposure meter such as an SLR (or very good compact) or using a light meter. Black and white film is all negative nowadays. There was a wonderful black and white slide film offering from Agfa called Dia Direct. Now long discontinued. There are some techniques for creating B+W slides from negative film. Slides are also a better choice if you want to take film pictures and then digitise them. Negatives are notoriously difficult to colour correct after scanning. You can look at the slide and compare with the digitised version to get an accurate colour balance. Prints do not give you a valid reference point! Summary: if you want prints go for print film. Slides if quality or scanning. 2. Next choice is film speed. As with everything else in life, choosing the film speed is an exercise in compromise. Slower film speeds (smaller ISO) have a finer grain but the greater light required means slower shutter speeds and could interfere with picture taking. Faster film speeds allow for faster shutter speeds but the increased grain size can be distracting. ISO 100 or slower for the finest grain. Use in good lighting conditions such as bright sunny days. ISO 200 is a good general purpose film for slower lenses such as those found on compact cameras or zoom lenses. In print film this speed has all but replaced ISO 100 as the quality of modern films have gr...
Exposure is one of the most important photography concepts to learn, but it is also one which strikes fear into the hearts of even the most intrepid photographer - after all, it all sounds so... technical! As it turns out, exposure is actually a very simple thing to grasp and, once you do, it allows you so much more control over your photos that you'll wonder how you ever lived without it. Exposure Exposure is simply the amount of light that reaches our camera's sensor or film. Like Goldie Locks and her porridge, we're looking to capture just the right amount of light to show off all the details of our scene. Too much light and we end up with an overexposed photo; too little and it comes out dark and underexposed. So how do we control exposure? By using two basic camera properties - the shutter speed and the lens aperture diameter. Shutter Speed Shutter speed is a measure of how long the camera's shutter is open for. A fast shutter speed might be around 1/1000th of a second, while a slow shutter speed can be up to several seconds or longer. Plus of course you can have anything in between.The longer the shutter is open for, the slower the shutter speed, and the more light we capture. Aperture Diameter This is perhaps the most daunting camera setting, but it's actually very simple. The aperture is an opening within the camera's lens that can get wider or narrower. A wide aperture allows more light through in a given amount of time than a narrow one. Aperture is measured by an 'f-number'. Somewhat confusingly, a small f-number (e.g. f2.0) means we have a wide aperture, which will let in more light. A large f-number (say f32) means we have a narrow aperture, letting in less light. Combining Shutter Speed and Aperture Diameter for a Perfect Exposure By now you can probably see that there are many combinations of shutter speed and aperture diameter that will give us our desired exposure. For example we could use a fast shutter speed and a wide aperture, or a slower shutter speed and a narrow aperture, and still let in the same amount of light, giving us the same exposure. The exact settings you use depend on the situation and the effect you want to achieve. If you are photographing a fast-moving object like a car, then you'll need to use a fast shutter speed to prevent it coming out blurred. For this you'll need a wide aperture to let in enough light in the short space of time the shutter is open for. If on the other hand you want to maximize your scene's depth...
ISO wasn't easy to change on early digital cameras. First, here's a quick definition: ISO stands for the International Standards Organization. What it really indicates is a digital sensor's sensitivity to light. A low ISO is less sensitive and a high ISO is very sensitive. Further translated: a high ISO like 3200 means that the sensor can capture a clear photo, even in low-light conditions. A low ISO like 100 requires a lot of ambient light for clear shots. So why is this setting so often ignored? It's harder to sell the benefits of ISO (which is pretty confusing to anyone who is not a camera junkie) versus something simpler like speed (2 photos per second or 5 photos per second...which one's faster?). Well, I'm here today to try to illustrate the benefits of ISO. It is a prominent feature on all of the latest digital cameras, and is something that you should be aware of when you're trying to take photos in available light. Benefit #1 - Clear hand-held photos Here's the problem: you're taking photos indoors on an overcast day. The only way that you can get a proper exposure is to slow down the shutter speed to 1/30 of a second. The camera's shutter needs to stay open 1/30 of a second to let in plenty of light. Unfortunately, the longer the shutter stays open, the more likely your photo will turn out blurry. The blur is caused by camera shake when you hold the camera in your hands. While blur is sometimes desirable to illustrate motion, most ot the time it's not the effect you want. You really want to get a clear photograph, but there isn't enough ambient light. You think you're stuck with two options: use a flash, or attach the camera to a tripod so it's stable. But here comes ISO to offer up a third alternative: set your ISO to 800 or 1600. This boosts the light sensitivity of the camera's sensor, so you're not forced to keep the shutter open so long. With a shutter speed of 1/125 or 1/250 you can now hold the camera in your hands and get perfectly clear available-light photographs. Benefit #2 - Atmosphere As you increase the ISO on your digital camera, you also increase the noise in the photograph. "Noise" is the appearance of dots and specks, typically in shadow areas of the image. Digital camera manufacturers have gone to great lengths to minimize noise, even at high ISO settings. This is due to benefit #1 above. But sometimes you might want that noise in your photograph. Let's say you're taking shots on a foggy day, and the mood of the scene could rea...
Do you know what ISO is? Perhaps not. And, in fact, you don't need to know what it is � just how to use it. In very simple terms, the ISO setting is a measure of how sensitive your camera sensor is to light. A low ISO (e.g. 100) will not be very sensitive to light whereas a high setting (e.g. 1600) will be very sensitive. How does this affect you? It's simple, and don't let others tell you otherwise. If you have plenty of light around � say on a sunny day or if it is bright but overcast, use ISO setting 100 or 200. In fact, keep it at that setting for most of your shots. Then just take your pictures as normal. If however, you are in low light levels, you may wish to use flash (keep the same ISO setting) OR use a higher ISO without flash. Here is an example of practical use: You want to take a picture of your friend. Normally, on a normal bright day, you would use programme mode or a semi-automatic mode which will select an aperture of 5.6 and shutter speed of 1/250. No problem. But if the light is fading and you don't want to use flash, then the shutter speed for the same aperture might reduce to 1/30 or 1/15. At slow speeds like this you will find your shots are not as sharp due to camera shake. Here, you can switch to a higher ISO setting � for every doubling of the ISO you can halve the shutter speed. Therefore you will be able to use a faster shutter speed in low light conditions with a higher ISO. That's it really. There are two drawbacks. First, you will get a �noisier� image at a higher ISO setting (more grainy � but this can often create a nice effect) and secondly you must remember to switch back to your usual ISO after the shots have been taken (so that your usual images have the optimum ISO setting). Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com.
What is Shutter Speed? In very simple terms, shutter speed is the time it takes for the shutter on the camera to open and close. When the shutter is open, light is let in to the sensor and when it is closed, no light gets in. The longer the shutter is open, the greater the amount of light that is let in. The more light, the brighter your image will be. Conversely, the shorter the shutter is open, the less light that is let in. Shutter speeds are typically recorded in fractions of a second: � second is a long shutter speed (more light) and 1/1000 is a short one. Usual values are: 1 - 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/8 - 1/15 - 1/30 - 1/60 - 1/125 - 1/250 - 1/500 - 1/1000 There is also often a �B� (or �bulb�) setting which allows the user to hold the shutter open for as long as they wish. In addition, digital cameras often have shutter speeds in-between the values shown above and can also often be set for 10, 20 or 30 seconds. With a fast shutter speed, the shutter is open for only a short time. This helps especially in two ways. First, it helps to freeze the movement of a fast moving subject. Secondly, it reduces the chance of camera shake. A slow shutter speed will allow blurring of movement and will enable much smaller apertures to be used. Of course, shutter speed settings are combined with aperture settings in setting the amount of light that comes into the camera. You can see it as the aperture determining the intensity of the light hitting the sensor and the shutter speed determining how long it hits the sensor for. Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Hartwell
This tutorial explains how to make falling objects that will work as seamless backgrounds and have objects falling at different paces.
NO - DEFINITELY MAY NOT! I don't mind, of course, any form of back link to Digital Photo News tutorials section, but taking any one of the tutorials whole and supplanting it on your website is theft. If you really like the tutorials and want to advertise them, why not just hyperlink directly to their URL? Is it possible to submit some of my own tutorials?
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Shutter speed is perhaps the most creative adjustment available to the digital photographer. It allows us to freeze action or use motion blur to create a variety of effects, and is expressed in seconds or fractions of seconds depending on the length of exposure. A high shutter speed (1/1000 of a second or higher) can freeze even very fast moving objects dead in their tracks. However, you will need to keep a couple of things in mind: 1.) You are going to need a brightly lit subject as shutter speeds this high don't allow your camera much time to gather light for exposure. You can get around this to a degree by using a higher ISO setting, but don't go to high, or noise will creep into your shot. 2.) If possible, set up your shot by having your camera focused on the spot where your subject is going to pass by. This will allow you to concentrate on timing your subject's approach, giving you a better chance to trip the shutter at just the right moment. Medium shutter speeds (1/20 of a second to 1/80 of a second) can be used to create motion blur when photographing moving objects. This gives the photo a sense of life and motion. Here are several ways you can approach this type of motion blur: 1.) With your camera stationary, trip the shutter as a moving subject passes by. This will make the subject look blurred, while keeping the rest of the shot clear�giving your subject a look of speed and a sense that it is moving out of the shot. 2.) Follow your subject through the viewfinder in a smooth sweeping motion as it approaches, and trip the shutter as your subject goes by�this is called �panning.� This method will keep your subject relatively clear, but will blur the background, giving an overall sense of speed and movement. The timing for this type of shot takes a little practice, but the results make it worthwhile. 3.) When shooting a stationary subject, purposely move your camera in a sweeping or circular motion to create a blur of colours and lines. This one is a lot of fun and can provide some interesting abstract results. Low shutter speeds (1/8 of a second up to 30 seconds and beyond) can be used to create a variety of effects�here are just a few: Note: For most of these long exposures a tripod or some other means of keeping the camera perfectly still is necessary to avoid creating unintended blur. 1.) Moving water will look smooth and silky when shot at shutter speeds of 1/8 of a second or more�the longer the exposure the more pronounced the effect. 2.) Whe...
I love high speed Photography. Being able to capture a moment in time that we, as humans, would otherwise be unable to see. The beautiful mixture of technical precision and artistic freedom. The following are a collection of High Speed Photographs featuring the use of water or liquid. While you may have seen many collections featuring water, bullets, exploding fruit etc, I thought I would pay tribute and showcase some of the most stunning and beautiful liquid based High speed Photographs. Do you want to learn more about High Speed photography so you can experiment yourself? Check out these great Tutorials and Articles.
1. Open your image.
Fill with the color #bcdf4f and add a 4 pixel black �stroke� (you wont actually see the stroke at this time, obviously).
Step 01 � Prepare a car
I'm going to show step by step how to do it. First, open your picture, I used this one:
I guess this is good enough for the �very cool effect� �great effect� �brilliant� guys� they say the same in every single comment� funny.
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