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Take a very pleasant day and turn it into a stormy night photo. To do this you can download the photo of teton lake that is the 5th from the last in the Wyoming section.

You can duplicate the top layer to create a darker border, and/or you can duplicate the original image layer and add noise to the one on top to make it more authentic-looking. There are so many things to tweak, you can come up with whatever! So please experiment and have fun. This is what I ended up with:

This tutorial will show you an easy way to create a random starry night sky, using just a few of PhotoShops tools. You can make the document any size you want, and can decide how many stars you want! First thing we do is create a new document and fill the background black. Make sure the background layer is active (not locked). If it's called Background, double click the layer and press Ok.

Learn how to use Photoshop to remove and replace solid backgrounds. In this Photoshop tutorial, you will learn time saving techniques that works...

We need to add a new blank layer above the Background layer. To do that, let's do things a bit differently than we've seen in other tutorials. Let's add a new layer using the keyboard shortcut Shift+Ctrl+N (Win) / Shift+Command+N (Mac). This will tell Photoshop to pop up the New Layer dialog box where we can name our layer before adding it. We can also set some other options as well, like the layer blend mode and the opacity value, but all we need to do for now is name the layer. This layer is where we're going to create our stars, so let's name the layer "Stars":

I've had a couple of requests for some tutorials aimed more at beginners, so I've tried to come up with a slightly simpler tutorial than normal. However, hopefully people of all abilities will find it interesting how to turn an ordinary day scene into a magical night scene with just a few steps. For all your hardcore Photoshoppers don't worry - my next tutorial will be more advanced than this one.

Choose the fighters on top and pull down the Saturation like we did the starburst. I went down by about 60. Click the Move Tool in the toolbox. Hold down shift while tapping the arrow key once left and once down. This should move the image 10 pixels in each direction. The lightly transparent image in the back should give them a stylish sense of movement.

Today we will learn how to switch a photo from day to night. Let's start, open in Photoshop the photo you want to modify. I've chosen this one [link] (You need to register on this site to download this photo, don't worry, it is free). Now it's the time for the night effect.

Submitted by Martin on 2006-05-09 10:56:23. Since then read 1208 times. Scored 4.16 points out of maximum 5 by 90 votes.

Title: Create a dark snowy night and Learn to create dark snow night and snow covered trees in this tutorial, using photoshop tools. Snow effect photoshop tutorial

Day to Night - DakotaBoy88 This advanced and highly detailed Photoshop tutorial shows how to transform a daytime image into a night scene.

Here is a simple photo manipulation turning a day time picture into an enchanted night. The photo I used is one that comes installed with Photoshop and is located in the '..\Samples\Stock Art' folder with file name of '0006865.JPG'.

All of this is by way of rehearsal for being able to do this type of shot at some point in the future when I find myself in a great location and the conditions are right. I now know what the D60 is capable of when doing nighttime moonlit landscapes, and I look forward to the images that may be possible.

If you can spare the time to do a little recce prior to a night shoot it's well worth it, it will allow you to plan a hit list and your timings - some buildings will look great at a certain time and others will get better and better as darkness creeps in.

Step 3: Now we will apply the Night Vision effect to our photograph by selecting the Duotone Option from the shown below Image Menu.

Step 1. We begin with a basis of our collage - the background. I have found a photo of the cloudless sky of emerald color. It ideally suits: we only have to cut out a superfluous bottom part. We do it, using Crop Tool.

2. To Use a Magenta tint as I did above, Change the Filter to Magenta and increase the Density to somewhere around 51. Also make that the checkbox that says Preserve Luminosity is checked. 3. Another good filter to use for a night photo (instead of Magenta) is a Blue Photo Filter. For the example on the left I used the Blue color with a density of 60.

Do you like to take photos at night? I know I do. There's something magical about them - pictures of the moonlight sky and dazzling neon lights convey a special something that daytime photos can't. When I started out taking digital photos at night, boy, did I have problems! The issue is that many digital cameras do not perform very well under low-light conditions. To take good night photos, there are some tricks you need to remember - so here are a few of them. Tip 1: Use Long Exposures The key to successful night photography lies in a long exposure. We're talking about exposures measured in seconds. When a long exposure is used, more light is allowed into the camera, allowing the details in your night photo to be captured. The problem with using long exposures is that you may shake the camera, resulting in poor pictures. The way around this is to use a tripod. I prefer to install a tripod with a shutter-release cable to ensure that I don't jolt the camera at all. Tip 2: Take Control Shots One problem with digital cameras is that there are always some pixels on the image sensor which are bad. When taking day photos, these defects are not discernible. However, they are pretty obvious in night photos. How do we correct these? Here's a simple way � take a control shot, then use image editing to subtract out those bad pixels. This is how it works. The next time you're out to take night photos, go ahead and snap a picture of Scene A, as you normally would. Then, when it's convenient, take a photo of the exact same Scene A again, but with the lens cap on. Now you will have two images, one night shot and one control shot (with the hot pixels). Load them up in say, Paint Shop Pro. Switch to the control shot and select Edit and Copy from the menu. Next, switch to the night shot and paste the copied image as a new layer. Then, select the new layer and change the Blend Mode to Difference and click OK. You'll get the correct night shot with the hot spots subtracted out. Tip 3: Try to Capture Motion With a long exposure, you have many creative options when it comes to photography. This includes capturing motion. For example, have you ever wondered how those professional photographers shoot pictures of trails of car lights as they zoom down the highway at night? It's all due to long exposures. Try to keep this in mind the next time you're taking a night photo � you don't have to restrict yourself to still images. Tip 4: Play with the Aperture In addition to shutter spee...

Understanding night photography. No sun, no fun? Don't kid yourself. A lot of us think of night time being dark and dreary and prefer to stay indoors - but do you realize what you are missing out on. When light starts to fade it's the perfect time to grab the camera and explore the magical scenery that the night brings us. Urban landscape can be a real bore to photograph during the day; the dull grey buildings are lifeless and can sometimes leave you feeling as stiff as the buildings themselves. But when light from the day starts to fade our cities and towns are turned into a magical vista of outstanding light jumping out to be photographed. So do you have the skills to take successful night time portraits? If not, the following tips are here to help you improve. The first thing to decide is what film to use. If you are shooting static subjects such as buildings or street signs a slow film is recommended - the Fuji Velvia with an ISO of 50 or 100 will work best. If you are shooting fast moving subjects use a fast film - ISO 400 There is no lens that will help to get better night time images. It is best to carry a variety. Make sure you have a telephoto lens. This will help to zoom in on buildings and get rid of any unwanted dark areas. Use the same composition rules that you use when taking landscape pictures. Lead with lines: leading with lines into the main part of the scene will draw your viewers attention into your image. These lines don't have to be straight. Lines, such as streetlights, the light from moving traffic, or any fences that are brightly lit may work successfully. Foreground interest: Simple foreground objects will give your night-time image a greater sense of depth. This is the same as if you are photographing a landscape image during the day. Natural frames: Frame your scene with the elements all around you. This will focus attention on the main part of the picture. Example: If you are taking an image of a building use the dark buildings around it to frame your image. Remember, always use a tripod. Your exposure time is going to be long - it's impossible to get sharp images at night with a hand-held camera. Exposure: This is probably the hardest part of taking night time images. How do we calculate the proper exposure? Colour temperature varies when working with artificial light, so different exposure times are necessary. It's best to bracket your shots to get the perfect result. Don't be afraid to use plenty of film to get the perfect r...

One of the problems with digital photos (and film camera photos) these days is camera shake. Camera shake occurs when the camera is moved during exposure (while the shutter is depressed). This results in a blurred photo and is sometimes not all that apparent until the photo is 'blown' up, revealing movement in the photo. The dimmer the scene, the longer the camera shutter is required to be 'opened' in order to capture the image. Whether you use a compact point and shoot or SLR (Single Lens Reflex) camera, camera shake can ruin an otherwise perfect photo. There are many ways to minimise camera shake or eliminate it altogether. The most obvious way is to use a tripod, however that is not always readily available or practical at times. Another popular method of stabilizing the camera is to use a camera bean bag. One such camera bean bag is called Cam-Pod. Cam-Pod is different to the traditional camera bean bag because it has bi-folding pockets that can fold to hold the camera and lens snugly. It also contains plastic fillings, making it customs friendly. Taking hand held shots � When taking handheld photos. It can sometimes be a challenge to use a shutter speed fast enough to prevent camera shake or blur. This depends on the available light. A general rule of thumb is to use a shutter speed equivalent to the focal length of your lens. For example; if you are using a 50mm lens, the minimum shutter speed for hand held shots would be 1/50th sec or faster. On a 200mm lens, use 1/250th sec or faster. Shoot hand held with a speed slower than this and you are likely to get camera shake. If you are extremely still with your hands, you can probably get a way with speeds a little slower than these suggested speeds. To take the shot, hold the camera with both hands and with your elbow beside your body. This will provide additional stabilization of the camera. Many cameras may have a shutter lag so after depressing the shutter, do not move the camera immediately or you may experience movement in your shot. When taking the shot, breath in, press the shutter and then exhale. Using the camera bean bag support � Find a firm surface to lean your camera on, eg a rock, bin, fence, wall, tree, etc. Make sure surface is solid and does not move easily. Place the camera bean bag on the surface and your camera on top or to the side if it is vertical. Wiggle the camera a little to allow camera to sit firmly on the camera bean bag. With an SLR/DSLR camera, just fold the camera bean ...

Tripods are used when you need a steady platform to take a digital photo. In some scenarios not using a tripod will result in a blurry digital photo with its objects either blurred or simply out of focus. However there are times when you will find yourself in a situation that a tripod is needed but you do not have one with you to use. Here are some alternatives to using a tripod when one is not available. Like film cameras digital cameras are also sensitive to movements and shakings while shooting a photo. If the digital camera moves while the shutter is open the result will be a soft or blurry photo. Usually camera movements are very small and in high shutter speeds the camera does not have an opportunity to move enough in order to distort the digital photo. However in some scenarios such as slow shutter speeds, low ambient light and macro or high zoom photos even the tiniest movement will result in a blurry digital photo. As a general rule photos that are taken with slow shutter speeds or high zoom values should be taken using a steady platform. The best steady platform is a tripod � but when a tripod is not available (for example when you travel and you do not want to carry a bulky and heavy tripod with you) there are some other methods and alternatives that you can use as a steady platform. Here are a few: Lean the camera against a steady surface: you can use almost any surface that is steady in order to stabilize the digital camera. Such surfaces can be anything from a table, a wall, a bench or a light pole. Make sure that the surface is indeed stable by trying to shake it a bit with your hand. When taking the photo put the camera against that surface and apply some force (for example your weight) to make sure it does not move. Place the camera on a horizontal surface: another option is to simply place the camera on a horizontal surface. The surface needs to be flat and stable. When you shoot the digital photo you should gently press the shutter button making sure that the camera does not move and then let go. Gravitation will make sure that the camera stays stable on the surface. The main problem with this method is that the camera might shake or bounce when the shutter button is pressed. To overcome this problem you can use two methods: delayed photo � set the camera to timer mode using the shortest time for example 2 seconds. When you press the shutter button the camera will start counting and will have enough time to stabilize before the photo is ...

Buy. Download. Create. Get Adobe Photoshop now at the Adobe Store. Find Photoshop CS4 tutorials and videos on our Photoshop CS4 Tutorials Page. Try before you buy. Download any Adobe product for a free 30 day trial. The Night Vision Thing ? A Photoshop Recipe A Night Vision Device (NVD) works by using either image enhancement or thermal imaging techniques. Whichever method is used, photos from night vision devices are instantly recognizable by their greenish glow. I visited some online stores to study night vision goggles and scopes (research!) and found that images from NVDs also tend to include some noise, some blur, and dark areas near the edges. So I'll incorporate these visual elements into our project to add realism. Going Gray The first step is to convert your source file to Grayscale. Choose Image> Mode> Grayscale. Once in Grayscale mode we can create our night vision green, which we'll do by applying a Duotone. Two Shades Of Green Choose Image> Mode> Duotone. This will bring up the Duotone Options dialog box. Now we need to pick two different greens. Our Ink 1 green will be 25BF21. Just click on the little color square and enter the number via the Color Picker. You must name your Inks so name this one NVD1 (or whatever you wish). Repeat this for Ink 2 and enter A8D9A7 for the color and NVD2 for the name. We'll go back to RGB mode now. Choose Image> Mode> RGB Color. Next we'll increase some of the light in the source file. Tweak With Levels Copy your Background Layer and name it. Select your new layer and choose Image> Adjustments> Levels. In the Input Level dialog box enter (from left to right): 70, 1.00, and 230. This will boost the contrast and give us more of a glow from some of the light. Selective Blur Choose your Blur Tool and set it to a low opacity, about 20%. Choose a medium size brush and run it across the bottom of the photo, in this case to make the runway approach lights slightly blurry. Add Noise Now we'll add some noise into the file. Choose Filter> Noise> Add Noise. Enter Amount: 3%, Distribution: Uniforn, and make sure Monochromatic is selected. Levels - 2nd Pass Choose Image> Adjustments> Levels. This time in the Input Level dialog box move the Left Slider toward the right to darken the image uniformly. Final Adjustments Choose the Burn Tool, set it at Midrange, Exposure 50%, and carefully apply your brush in a circular motion to the outside of the image. This gives a nice subtle darkening effect to the edges. Finally choose Hue/...

Images, whether from film or digital cameras, need one ingredient... light. How then can photographers get good images in low light conditions? Using flash would be one way. But even the most dimly lit scene has some light - and that means the potential for a great photo!

Photography at night can be used to create amazing pictures. For this kind of photography a tripod is almost a must. If you want to get a clear exposure with a great depth-of-field, then you will need a tripod. Usually when we take pictures of sunsets or bright lights we just center all the coloring and shoot the picture.

Twilight is a magical time. Just because the Sun is down, doesn't mean you should put away your camera. When the Sun sets, a different looking world exists for photographers. Colors don't appear the way they do in daylight. Instead, colors display based on your camera's white balance setting and how that setting matches the various light sources in your scene. Backgrounds become less distracting. Street lights and lit building interiors give you outlines and shapes of various colors. Chances are not everything in your scene is lit. So what you see in your viewfinder is very close to what you'll get if you expose carefully and properly. People in your scene don't matter as much unless you want them to. Passers-by don't register in your image. Even if they do, they are a blur unless you "freeze them" with a flash. Cars show up as trails of red and amber lights. Skies take the color or aura of the city's lights especially if there are low lying clouds to reflect it. Compared to other subjects, night photography doesn't require a whole lot of equipment. The following are necessities: 1. A steady tripod 2. a cable release to trip the shutter. Most people can get by using the self-timer. The key is to not shake the camera when you trip the shutter. 3. a flashlight to illuminate the knobs and dials of your camera. 4. optional-- a portable flash with lots of batteries You pretty much will get what you see in your viewfinder. You don't have to worry about trying to light anything except when you want to include a person in the picture. But I'll discuss that later. The various elements in your picture lights itself freeing you to just concentrate on your composition and exposure. Fountains tend to have spots and colored lights on them, christmas trees are never displayed in public without multicolored lights and beautiful majestic architecture in most civic centers are usually brightly lit up showcasing a city's pride. Here's how to set up: 1. Change the ISO on your camera to 1600 or whatever the maximum number is. 2. If you have a digital SLR, attach your longest focal length lens on your camera and take a light reading. The idea here is to use the narrower field of view so that your lightmeter can give you a more accurate light reading. If you have spot meter reading mode on your camera, that will give you a similar result. 3. Take note of the exposure reading you get in step 2. 4. Calculate that exposure reading for ISO 200 5. Switch lenses to a wide angle or eve...

Create brilliant and dazzling looking stars, night skies and constellations with this selection of 10 brushes by luciferous-glow. The star brushes range in size from 72 to 280 pixels. The also includes a high resolution full moon image of 328 pixels along with two crescent moon brushes.

6. Open your castle image. Use the move tool to drag that image over to your canvas. Use the magnetic lasso to select the castle, village and land from the sky. Apply a layer mask. Right click on the layer mask and select apply layer mask.