[...] Grunge Portrait | Learning Resources for Adobe Photoshop - Ever wanted to learn how to use grunge and splatter brushes effectively, we here we learn how to turn our face into a grungy portrait use various types of brushes and some more advanced techniques. Read on to learn how to achieve this effect in only a few simple steps and gain a better understanding of brushes in Photoshop with this tutorial. [...]
Here is a new tutorial for all the drawing lovers. In this tutorial, we will make a quick sketch, scan the sketch, and convert it into Photoshop. Then the fun will begin. Drawing a portrait is not very simple, but with some knowledge you can achieve a lot. The end result may not look exactly like the person you are trying to draw, but the important thing is to do the best you can and make the eyes, mouth, or nose look similar to your subject.
I think most readers are missing the point here, the tutorial is called �How to Digitally Paint an Abstract Face Portrait� Emphasis on �Abstract�
As I was thinking of making more advance tutorials, maybe its time to make a quick simple tutorials where beginners can easily figure how it was done. Here is a simple tutorial for beginners. In this tutorial you'll gonna learn how to create a Simple Text Portrait in Photoshop. You will learn how to make a text follow into a path with the use of Pen Tool (P) in more artistic way.?? Here's a quick look on the final result
Buy. Download. Create. Get Adobe Photoshop now at the Adobe Store. Find Photoshop CS4 tutorials and videos on our Photoshop CS4 Tutorials Page. Try before you buy. Download any Adobe product for a free 30 day trial. Photoshop Retouching Cookbook "Whitening Teeth & Eyes" (Pages 54, 55 from the Retouching Portraits section of Photoshop Retouching Cookbook for Digital Photographers - courtesy of O'Reilly Media.) Whenever the need arises to make a natural element white or whiter, it's tempting to set the foreground color to white and reach for the airbrush. This works if applied with care, but it's easier to achieve a more realistic effect using other Photoshop tools. Here, a small amount of whitening applied to the model's teeth and eyes will lift the whole image. Method 1: Dodge The first technique successfully whitens your teeth without placing demands on your brushwork. As with most retouching tasks, it's best to work on a duplicate layer in case you make a mistake. STEP 1 Create the new layer, select the Dodge tool, then go to the Tool Options bar and set the Range to Midtones. The default Exposure setting is 50%, which is a good starting point. Now run the Dodge tool over the teeth until they look whiter. The Dodge tool is very powerful, so more than three brush strokes could leave the teeth looking overdone. If that's the case, use Undo (Ctrl/Cmd +Z) to step back, then reduce the Exposure setting in the Tool Options before returning to work.
First of all, this isn???t exact science. Faces are never the same. Some people have longer faces while others have more rounded faces. Some people have a small nose while others have big ones. These are just the guidelines to get everything in the right place. Start of with an up-side-down egg shape. In general the width of a face is two third of the length.
For this project, I'm using Photoshop to create an image that appeals to me � an image that incorporates something old and something modern; a sort of take on East meets West.
For this step, we're going to be playing with a similar effect that I discussed in my Unique Abstract Website Header Photoshop Tutorial. Create a new Layer, and select a large (400-600px), soft, orange (#f38c11) brush. Paint a large dab to fill the bottom right of the canvas.
I read similar article also named Portrait Retouching for Beginners, and it was completely different. Personally, I agree with you more, because this article makes a little bit more sense for me
In a recent campaign to promote the creative retouching services that Ardis offers to photographers and art directors in South Florida, we showed how we can take a bland stock photo and create striking surrealistic compositions. You can see the pictures in our campaign (and their creation process) in our new retouching page, but in this tutorial we decided to let you into one more secret and show you step by step how we created the beautiful porcelain mask that you can see in the composition below.
In this tutorial I've outlined my approach to creating stylised portraits. The image I've used as my example was produced for my online project called tss Magazine. Every month I create a cover or two, illustrated with events or people I find especially interesting. I hope that you find my techniques useful�
Make that second layer into a high pass sharpening layer. Go to filter->other->high pass and select a pixel radius where you are just starting to see the details in the iris of the eye. (outlines)
Shanw Barber's body of work focuses primarly on painting, portariture and documenting comtemporaty tattoo culture. He received his BFA in 199 from the Ringling School of Art & Design, is Sarasota, FL. His painting have been exhibited in diverse solo and group venues including: The Shooting Gallery in San Francisco, Lineage Gallery in Philadephia...
Unfortunately, the series is still going, and I haven't gotten to my tutorial and specifics of HDR. BUT, I did leave a short description of what the technique does to photos in the first post in the series, so check that out for the basics: http://www.thatindiedude.com/2008/10/inspired-3-hdr-photos-flickr/ . Other than that description, stay tuned for the next post in the series for the in-depth on what is going on and the how-to
An elegant, interesting and colorful portrait. Keep in mind that when you start out with great photographs, the easier it is going to be to produce a little quality design 'enhancements'. ;)
Modern Da Vinci Style Portrait - Photoshoptalent.com Turn your portrait into a sepia painting, in the style of Leonardo Da Vinci. You need to do a bit of brush work to get the right effect.
In this tutorial we will go through the steps of a simple technique I've used to reduce skin blemishes using Photoshop. This subtle effect can be the difference between a bland picture and a professional-looking portrait.
We are going to take this nice photo here on the right and through the magic of photo shop turn it into a hot sexy glamorous picture like you find in magazines. If you want to follow along click on the picture to get the full size original that I started with.
Finally make sure you're on the �girl's� layer. You will now turn that picture into a silhouette. Hit Ctrl+U, which will open the Hue/Saturation option box, all you have to do is get the Lightness down to -100.
You may get .psd* file of Platinum Web Design Photoshop tutorial by making a donation. Put the tutorial title in "Add special instructions to seller" line of PayPal and it will be sent to you shortly.
AKVIS Sketch allows converting any photo into a pencil sketch. The most popular subject for a sketch is a person. You can often see street artists offering to draw a portrait for those who want and showing hand-drawn portraits of celebrities. A pencil portrait can be a good present for your relatives and friends.
If you are a vector art lover and don’t know how to host it then now it’s not a big deal. Now you can host own personal domain name and photo gallery at cheap price with the help of web hosting service provider. When ever you want to update or add vector portraits in your site you need a web server login. The host providers also provide different tools like seo, marketing and web development tools to make your work easy. As vector portrait site has a huge size, therefore; form hosting provider you need dedicated hosting plans to give speedy and fast internet access to your vector portrait site and it is more reliable if you are using dsl for hosting purposes.
One of the most important element of good portrait photography is the background. The background is also the most common mistake with portrait photography. Good lighting, pose, and focus can contribute to good portrait photography, but a distracting background can ruin it all. Chances are that if you shoot portraits, you'll have several photos with this problem laying around. Follow this Photoshop tutorial to learn how to rescue those photos and make them look amazing.
Sometimes your portraits are marred by dull or distracting backgrounds. Use the Magic Extractor tool to replace that boring background with an interesting backdrop! The Magic Extractor tool is especially useful if your subject has wispy hair on a solid background. While it won't catch everything, it allows you some control over those wisps. (Hair is painfully hard to manage and most often requires painstaking editing.)
A Generous Use of Layers... I thought I'd show how I created a simple portrait "painting" in Photoshop, step-by-step, using a Wacom digital tablet. This tutorial was created in Photoshop 6, but will work equally well in newer versions. It will probably work (with minor adjustments) in Photoshop LE, Photoshop Elements, and most older versions of Photoshop. Please bear in mind that this is not an actual portrait tutorial (as in how to draw faces). Check out my Portrait Tutorial site for more specific help in that area, or read my "tips for newbie portrait artists" page on this site.
5. Another method you can use for removing the dark circles is switching back to the Healing Brush Tool and getting a bigger hard-edged brush. Alt + click on an area with good skin tone and, with one long stroke, slowly paint over the wrinkle.
One of the easiest ways to make your portraits really stand out is to brighten your subject's eyes. This is a quick and easy photo retouch technique used by professionals that you can use on most any portrait.
At this point, you have three of the most popular skin softening techniques on separate layers. Now you can easily toggle the visibility of each layer to compare the different methods of skin smoothing. This is a great way to not only find a great look for your photo, but to get a little more hands-on experience with the different levels of softening and smoothing available in Photoshop.
Believe it or not the hardest part of drawing isn't the details. It's blocking out the shape. I can't stress how important this step is, as it sets the foundation for your entire image. I don't care how good your details are if your foundation isn't solid your piece will suffer.
Learn how to use Photoshop to remove and replace solid backgrounds. In this Photoshop tutorial, you will learn time saving techniques that works well with small detail such as hair.
In this Adobe Photoshop tutorial, we're going learn how to quickly and easily create a simple photo studio background in Photoshop which can then be used to make any portrait-style photo look as if it was taken in an actual photo studio, even if it was really taken in your office, your kitchen, your neighbor's backyard, or basically any place other than a photo studio. As with most Photoshop effects, this background works best when used with the right type of photo, so since we're trying to make it appear as if the photo was taken in a portrait studio, it helps if the person in the photo is dressed nicely, hair in place, and sitting in one of those completely unnatural portrait studio poses.
Buy. Download. Create. Get Adobe Photoshop now at the Adobe Store. Find Photoshop CS4 tutorials and videos on our Photoshop CS4 Tutorials Page. Try before you buy. Download any Adobe product for a free 30 day trial. Create A Glamour Portrait In 30 Seconds The following trick will make your portraits look just like the glamour shots you see in fashion magazines. In fact a similar technique is used by the retouch professionals at Penthouse. In this trick the objective is to retain the character of the model as much as possible. There are many ways to improve your portraits, including color correction, retouching and others, but the most important thing to do is to smoothen out the skin of your model. Frontal flash is probably the worst thing you can do to your model, it brings out all the imperfections of the skin. That's why I've picked such an image for this example. The red channel is the cleanest in skin tones, so we are going to use that to clean up our image. In Window/Channels select the Red channel (or press Apple-1) and press select all (or press Apple-A). Make a copy (Apple-C). Select the composite RGB channels (or press Apple-~). Go back to the layers window and paste the clipboard as a new layer (Apple-V). Select luminosity for the layer blending mode. Now we have to mask out this layer to retain the details of the face like eyes, lips, etc. To do this we will make a special selection based on the luminosity of the image by pressing Apple-Alt-~. Now select your top luminosity layer and apply a mask with your selection by clicking the second small icon from the left on the bottom of the layer window. To bring back some color to the face choose the layer effect/curves (fourth icon on from the left on the bottom of the layer window) and bring the middle of the curve down. And you're done. [tutorial and images � Ivan Raszl of CreativeBits] Photoshop CS4 & Photoshop CS4 Extended - Best Deals From Adobe Photoshop CS4 and Photoshop CS4 Extended feature a newly refined, tab-based interface in a single, integrated window, with self-adjusting panels arranged in docked groups. Automatically keeping tools well organized and away from your work area means you get greater efficiency, less clutter, and better results, faster than before. Delivering all the features of Adobe Photoshop CS4 software, including the new Adjustments and Masks panels, Adobe Photoshop CS4 Extended also provides breakthrough 3D editing and compositing power to paint directly on 3D model...
Every time you use a layer adjustment, check (v) -use previous layer to create clipping mask- In other steps, when we change the color or the levels, we always create a clipping mask. I used +20 for brightness and contrast, but it differs for every photo, so play a bit with the settings till you are happy about it.
In this tutorial i am going to show you how you can paint a portrait using photoshop. I am going to use a photo and create it into a photorealistic painting. You can use your own sketch but if this is your first try at this i sugest using a photo this will make it easier sinds you dont have to make up all the details and shadows. For this tutorial i am going to use this photo that i made myself.
If there were one most exciting but stressful kinds of photo shoots there is--that would be child photography. Started out as a hobby of parents who are into photos and photography, the craft has evolved into something more commercialized and a viable source of income through the years. But for parents who would want to capture the best moments of their children, professional photography lessons wouldn't be that necessary, all they have to do is to learn about certain photography technicalities and observe the attitude and mood swings of their children. Parents should bear in mind that when trying to photograph their children, they should be ready for occasional tantrums and crying. When this happens, let the child calm down by giving them something that would catch their attention like a toy. Younger children like those tots under 5 years old are not very conscious or aware of the camera but this doesn't mean that they are very interested in the 'photo shoot'. To get their attention, make sure that you have something that will get their attention. Other Child Photography Strategies Portraits--especially of children--never fail to evoke feelings to anyone. If you're a budding professional child photographer, it would be better if you'll have a brief background in child psychology and you better to create your own strategies by now. Here are some strategies you can work on and try to reinvent over time: Strategy no. 1: Prepare for the best and the worst. Before the actual day of the shoot, make sure that you pay a visit to the house of the family to give you an idea what kind of child/ren you are going to deal with. It is also advisable to meet them personally and memorize their names to create familiarity. You can also have a sort of ocular inspection around the area so you can picture the ideal background and set up mentally. Before leaving for the actual photo shoot, double check all the necessities and equipment you will need. Strategy no. 2: Practice the power of smile. Being friendly or possessing a friendly aura will draw children nearer to you. Smiling will also make them more comfortable dealing with you throughout the shoot. Strategy no. 3: Impress them your "gears." Get children's attention by impressing them with stuff they don't know yet. Since they are generally inquisitive, you can get their attention by letting them touch and "play" with some of your simple photography equipment. Strategy no. 4: Set the background. Although a photo studio wo...
In portrait photography there are a few guidelines that you should review and think about when you take pictures of people. The three general types of portrait photography are: close-ups or facial shots, upper body shots, or environmental portraits (where you focus on the subject and the surrounding environment that gives the subject character).
Family portraits are an important part of our heritage. They preserve history. They record family growth. They document changing styles (some good, some not-so-good!). More than that, however, portraits seem to call to us and will garner our attention almost immediately when we enter a room. These, among many other reasons, are why family portraits continue to be so popular. It's also why portraiture is one of the most popular areas of study at photography schools. While almost all get looked at, only a few spark the phrase, "That's a good picture!" Why is it that since most photographers go through photography school, only some family portraits gain compliments while others seem ordinary? The posing strategies and selections of photographers play a big role. Photographers tend to get into ruts taking the same styles of portraits over and over. When you feel this happening to you, it's time to shake things up with new ideas about posing families. Natural Sittings (and Settings) Are Popular First and foremost, keep things light. The days of stiff family portraits where everybody is in exactly the same pose are over! Today, more natural-looking poses (even "formal" portraits) are what give that noteworthy appearance. Let the family members be themselves. Keep your eye behind the lens, always looking for an opportune shot as family members interact with each other. You'll also want to encourage natural laughter and smiles rather than forced "cheese" smiles. Creative Family Poses Get creative! Use your imagination and a host of props or natural settings to capture moments that are truly unique. For young families, consider placing baby in a bassinet with siblings and parents looking at baby, not at the camera. Perhaps toddlers could play at the edges of brooks or streams with mom and dad. Other memorable (not to mention adorable) shots could include toddlers chasing bubbles or butterflies and toddlers playing with puppies, bunnies or other small (but tame) pets. For families with older children, head outside! Fabulous portraits can be created with the family standing behind a fence (smaller kids sitting on the fence). Try a portrait of all silhouettes or of the family gathered on the front porch sipping lemonade. Families can even lounge at the edges of ponds or brooks for creative shots. Move! While there's a place to use your tripod, it may not be during a family portrait shoot. If you feel your posing is getting stale, toss the tripod and try alternate angl...
�We don't want any posed pictures� is a common admonishment from young people these days. What they mean is that they want to appear natural and relaxed in their portrait of the family. A certain amount of posing is a necessary evil in order to accomplish what they want. Of course, it is up to the photographer to make this as painless as possible. There are some general 'rules' of group portraiture that have been around since Rembrandt. Never line up the faces vertically or horizontally. The reason for this rule is that curves, triangles and diagonals create a more dynamic flow and are more pleasing to the eye.. Straight lines are static and tend to line up with the edges of the picture. Another rule is never to have faces look straight into the camera for if they do, unsymmetrical features are more easily apparent and the eyes take on a stare. Now, rules were meant to be broken, but first you have to know the rules. While couples can be considered a group, I will start with a group of three. The easiest of numbers, three people make an automatic triangle. Heads can be placed in an uneven triangle, foundation side down. Spacing should be varied, but similar in distance. Other successful patterns are the inverted curve with the middle person highest, a diminishing, flatter curve with the smallest person nearest the camera, and a stacked triangle in a vertical format. Groups of three generally look more together when the outside persons face in to the center. Enough body should be included in the composition so an not to appear bodiless. A general rule is to leave twice as much space above the heads as below the feet or hands in the picture. Spacing between heads are measured from the center of the eyes, not the edge of the head. Please do not crop off at the wrists and ankles. Hands play an important part in the language of the portrait. To look graceful and slender, hands should present their edges to the camera. Oppositely, to appear strong, the backs of hands should face the lens. Never allow the arms to hang down vertically, but find something for the hands to do so the arms are bent at the elbow. Arm rests, furniture and other people are handy tools for creating a dynamic angle for the arms. Shoulders look best when placed at a slight angle to the camera. Views across the back play up the curve of the spine and the jut of the jaw instead of the breadth of the shoulders. Too much of an angle will make the near shoulder appear too large, due to foreshort...
A broad, low light source is ideal for a flattering look to your portrait. An open sky overhead will result in dark eye shadowing. Reflecting light into the shadow areas or using fill flash will correct this situation. Take advantage of the light from a white building or a setting sun. A natural solution is to place your group under some overhanging branches.
When you are shooting a group of people, you should always make sure to have the necessary depth of field so that important details do not fall out of focus. This is not trivial to achieve. Therefore, you must pay particular attention when using telephoto lenses and when shooting particularly close to your subject, as both cases lead to a reduced depth of field. The same holds true for wide apertures, too. Which is the most critical group portrait as far as depth of field is concerned? Sure enough, the most difficult is the close-up. If you do not have enough depth of field to focus completely your subjects, it is pivotal that you sharp focus at least the eyes and the frontal planes of all the subjects. This means that the lips and the tip of the nose must be sharp. Ears take second place in order of importance: keep them in focus if you can. A good photographer knows that the depth of field of a lens is both behind and in front of the point of focus; besides, it is usually greater behind than it is in front. Therefore, it is an error focusing on the nearest part of the subject. Instead, you should focus between the nearest and the farthest points of your subjects, about one third within. In case of doubt, keep it simple and focus on the eyes. This has the additional advantage of focusing on a highly contrasting region (the eyes), making it an easier operation. As for 3/4- and full-length portraits, it is much easier to focus them properly, as the greater distance from the subject makes the depth of field greater. Anyhow, all the aforementioned recommendations still holds true. If a blurred background is desired, just use a wide aperture. If many people are involved in a group portrait, it could be taxing to fit all the individuals in the same focusing plane, even in full-length portraits. This is where the skilled photographer takes over and through careful posing of the subject and choosing a good vantage point can expertly accomplish the task. The theory to work the problem out is quite simple. Just pose all the individuals on the same plane and make sure the camera is pointing perpendicularly to that plane. Easy, isn't it? Unfortunately putting this prescription into practice is a whole other ballgame. The simplest posing strategy is having the individuals in the back of the group lean forward and the people at the front lean backward. This will reduce the depth of field required for a sharp image. There is a very clever trick to point the camera as pe...
What is the best focal length for portrait photography? In other words, if you are using a zoom lens, what is the best zoom position for taking a picture of one or more persons? What's different between a close-up and a full-length portrait? Answers to these questions will let us make more refined images of the people we love to photograph. In order to answer these questions we first must focus on what we want to do. Usually we want two things: 1) Reproduce the persons with no distortion. 2) Throw the background out of focus to avoid a distracting backdrop. To fulfill point 1) we should avoid getting too close to our subject. So this in turn leads to the question: what is the correct distance from the subject? The answer is twofold, according to whether you want a close-up or rather a 3/4-length to full-length group portrait. If you are making a close-up, a short telephoto is the best choice, let's say an 80mm lens. Such a lens offers normal perspective, while a standard 50mm lens would force the photographer to get too close to the subject thus altering the perspective (a phenomenon known as "foreshortening"). If foreshortening occurs, the closer parts of the subject's face (the nose, the chin) would appear greater than they are, and the opposite would happen to the back of his or her head. Or, in case of a large group, the faces of the people in front would appear much greater than those on the back. That's why, in case of a large group, an even longer lens than the 80mm would be better. If a 200mm is used for a close-up group portrait, the background will be completely out of focus, if this is what you desire, thus fulfilling the previous point 2). This is because the longer the focal length, the shallower the depth of field (even though this is rather improper). Be careful, however, to put all the faces in the same shallow plane of focus. Finally, avoid using extreme telephotos (300mm) because, again, perspective becomes distorted, with all subject's features appearing compressed. Moreover, keep in mind that the closer to the frame edges, the stronger the distortion. This is even more so for wide-angle lenses. If you are making a 3/4-length or full-length group portrait, a standard 50mm lens is the optimum choice. This time you will be farther away from the subject and the aforementioned foreshortening will not take place. Unfortunately, with such a lens it will be impossible to separate the subject from the background, thus rendering difficult the ful...
�When I use a flashgun I get unsightly reflections form people's skin. How can I avoid this?� Reflections from the skin of subjects can cause a good deal of bother and ruin the image for the photographer and model. Most times it is caused by harsh light falling on the subject and reflecting back to the camera. It can be made worse by certain skin tones and by types of make-up. It is easy to reduce this reflection: - use bounced flash � bounce the flash off of the ceiling or use a diffuser card (if your flash is equipped with a swivel head) - take the flash off camera and hold it to one side or higher - use a diffuser lens over the flash head (you can make a simple diffuser using a small piece of white cloth or you can buy one) - tell the subject to move the angle of their head - for studio lighting, used diffusers or umbrellas compatible with your flash heads - position the lighting further back to decrease the power hitting the subject - use theatre make up or ask the subject to change to less troublesome forms of make up - move the model to a different location (this can help to reduce stray light reflecting from windows etc These simple measures should be enough to ensure that stray reflected light is kept to a bare minimum or eliminated completely. Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com
There is nothing that beats a good portrait photograph. Especially when both the subject and the photographer are pleased with the results. But, if you want to take good portrait photos you need to think about investing in the right sort of lens. If you want your subjects to be pleased with the results of your work, then make sure you get a lens fit for the job. And that means, one with the correct focal length. Lenses with a focal length less than 80mm are no good. They make noses look too big because the photographer has to get in too close. The ideal portrait lens has a focal length in the range 90mm to 135mm. These keep the natural proportions of the face as you see with the naked eye. Don't forget your sensor size when determining the equivalent focal length. Most modern digital cameras have a sensor that is smaller than the 35mm film equivalent. This means you have to factor in a multiplier to get the correct lens focal length. A film lens of 50mm would work out 80mm on a digital sensor with a 1.6 multiplier factor. Refer to your camera handbook for information on magnification factors for sensors. A longer focal length means you can stand a bit further away and still fill the frame to your desire. This makes the nose more in proportion with the rest of the face and is very flattering. Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Hartwell
Every face can show a multitude of personality and individual characteristics. It is up to the portrait photographer to bring out the subjects best features with interesting conversation and good lighting. The photographer's first task is to evaluate the facial features and decide which ones to emphasize and which ones to minimize. Long noses look best from a low angle for instance, and double chins respond well to a high camera angle, but this article will be aimed at the effects of lighting on the human face. It is easier to guage the proper lighting by watching for key points. A flattering main light produces a definite shadow that extends from the crest of the nose to the cheek and includes all of the unphotogenic area next to the nose. The height of the main light is determined by the angle of the shelf under the eyebrow. Cavernous eyes are well served by a low main light and protruding eyes can benefit from a high main light. A second consideration is the appearance of a noticeable catch light on the eye since a too high main light will not show a catch light. The lower edge of the nose shadow should not touch or obscure the upper lip line. A proper shadow is the key to a flattering 'loop' light. This lighting shows most faces to good advantage, appearing both three dimensional and youthful. If a face seems round or heavy, side or split lighting is called for. While a three to one lighting ratio is good for loop lighting, a softer two to one ratio is best for split lighting. Bring the light source close to the face at a ninety degree angle from the camera. The short side of the face will show a shadow line that travels from the bridge of the nose down to the center of the chin, dividing the face into a well lit half and a shadowed half. The Fill light should be placed close to the lens and slightly above it in order to produce a clearly defined chin line and to minimize unsightly wrinkles. The key to watch for is the proper exposure in the highlights and enough light in the shadow areas to give a good skin tone. Hair and shoulder lighting is important and sets the mood of the picture. All hair absorbs light disproportionately and must be adjusted in strength according to the tone of the hair. Black hair may require three times the amount of light that blonde or gray hair requires. Be careful not to allow the hair light to spill over on the nose for obvious reasons. A broad source is to be preferred over a spot source because the latter emphasizes the...
The golden rule when taking pictures of people is to always think about what you are doing before you press the shutter release. What do you hope to achieve? Is the image being taken for record purposes (that would make it a formal shot) or is it to display the personality of the sitter? Pressing the shutter release in a haphazard manner will lead to uninteresting and poorly thought out shots. Neither you nor your subject will be pleased with the results. Think about a number of issues first: - What makes the subject interesting? � does your subject have a part of their personality that you wish to show � are they relaxed, happy, serious, austere, cheeky and so on. Or are they being snapped to depict a trait or a connection � for example a picture detailing their occupation, sport or interests? - Is the arrangement appropriate? � there's no point having an interesting subject with a competing background. Clear clutter and make your background and environment suit the sitter. A teacher would look at home behind (or sitting on) a desk or surrounded by books. A basketball player wouldn't. A child would be best placed near to toys, games and bright colors but your grandmother would wish a more mature and homely environment around her. You could always choose a large aperture to blur out the background or place a white sheet behind the sitter to make the background neutral. - Can you use props? � a pen, a book, a chair, a flower � something to make the subject feel more relaxed and to give the viewer a connection with the subject. Props can be very useful ways of enhancing a portrait. - Is the lighting correct? � shots of females and children often look best with diffused light. Watch out for harsh shadows cast by angled lighting and always have a reflector ready to bring light into shadow areas. Rugged faces look startling with harder and angled lighting whereas smoother faces look better with softer more flattering light. Prepare yourself before the shooting begins. Eric Hartwell is an enthusiastic photographer. He owns and runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums http://www.theshutter.co.uk/forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com Anyone interested in getting involved contact him at [email protected]
Classical (as in Contemporary) Portraiture vs Ultra-Conservative, Stiff & Staid Portraiture I fell in love with the Old Dutch Masters paintings way back when I was "knee-high to a grasshopper", mostly because of the way they depicted light and shadow. I'm particularly drawn to the chiaroscuro style, or what might be referred to today as 'Low-key' portraits. Of course, I have no way of judging the accuracy of the Master's portraits, as far as the actual countenance or expressions of the subjects, but looking at them, you get the feeling they are more than accurate. More than simply recording a likeness, these guys painted in some real personality! And, of course, it is partly because of their uncanny ability to disclose the genuine personalities of the subjects of their portraits, that their works are revered even today. Some of the other reasons for the extreme success of the Dutch Masters works include their beautiful interpretation of the way light and shadow interplay to reveal forms, animals, places and people common to our experience. And their techniques in applying colors and texture to their canvases. As a modern, contemporary portrait artist, working in Light and Shadow, (photography), my goals are to 1) show my subjects in the best light, 2) portray them honestly, so the viewer gets a sense of their personality, and 3) make them look better in the finished portrait than in real life! I'm sure that at least for the commissioned portraits, the goals of the Old Masters were identical to mine! When I studied photography and portrait lighting, I learned about Classical, or "Rembrandt" lighting, (along with a bunch of other stuff!). So, as my personal tastes run that way, I've always considered myself a "Classical" Portrait Artist. The other day, I had a client call asking about my studio portrait sessions, and said they wanted something different from what they had done back in their home country. What they had was "very classical, and formal", they told me. I didn't know quite what to make of that, but I was sure I could do something different from what they had, if I knew what they had..exactly. They came to the studio and we talked further. While waiting for them to arrive, I was thinking about my concept of "Classical Portraiture". I really see photography as painting with light and shadow. I favor the medium to high ratios from highlight to shadow in my portraits, and the classical style of lighting. I think it's very flattering. I always recomme...
Everyone knows that in every picture there is always a center of interest. It may not be in the center per se but it should be obvious what the subject of any photograph is. Chances are that subject is usually sharp and in focus. If it isn't, it might be framed in such a way that the viewer's eye will naturally gravitate to it. Generally speaking, following some of these simple advice, even if you are using a point-and-shoot camera, whether digital or film, will make your pictures better. 1. Backgrounds. Usually an afterthought but this can make or break a successful portrait. Moving closer to your subject physically or moving them closer to you taking them further away from the clutter in the background reduces the depth-of-field. Depth-of-field is jargon for "how much of a picture will be in focus and appears sharp." Because you are most likely concentrating on the face of your subject, you don't want the background to be in focus. That background especially if it is cluttered ends up competing for attention from your picture's center of interest--generally your subject's eyes. 2. Lighting. In instances when is impractical to move the subject from the background. Then what you can do to remove the clutter? Consider lighting just the subject and basing your exposure on just your subject. A picture exposed this way immediately renders the background a none factor. When you selectively "light" just your subject, either by opening a door or window next to the subject and turning off the room lights, you have effortlessly and effectively removed the clutter in the background. If your aim however, is to do an "environmental portrait," then you will need to show something else in the picture that tells your viewer what your subject does for a living. In this instance you should carefully pick elements in the scene that will "read" best. By "read," I mean choose elements which are bigger or more obvious especially if they are small in comparison to the size of your subject. A good example of this would be if you're photographing an artist.Posing your subject, the artist, in his studio by a window or doorway and turning off all the lights in the room, leaving only a work lamp to illuminate his work on an easel is a good example of this simple technique. If shooting in color, pay attention to the color temperature of your light sources. Using your flash or light source which is compatible in color temperature with your film or digital camera setting is extremely i...
Arrive at the venue earlier than you need to be there and try to arrange your set along the following lines. You should already have enquired about the size of the group i.e. the number of individual members. For example a typical group at a Masonic Lodge would number approximately twenty-seven. Ideally a group of this size should be posed using two rows of chairs in the following manner. Place a row of nine chairs in front, then place another row of nine chairs behind them with enough space between the two rows for a line of people to stand. The front row will sit on the chairs, the back row will stand on the chairs and the middle row will stand on the floor between the other two rows. The chairs at each side of centre should be angled slightly inward, so four chairs on left of the center chair in each row turned slightly in toward center and four chairs on right of center turned slightly in to center. This will give a nicer all round composition to the picture. Well-composed and symmetrical looking pictures always sell more. People prefer them, even when they are not consciously aware why. Check for Background Distractions Now stand back and check through the lens, check for protruding or distracting background items. Be ruthless with this; clear the background of anything you suspect will look cluttered or intrusive. It is small checks like this that will improve the professionalism of your service. I have had to do some emergency work to omit fire extinguishers and fire exit signs from the background. You can often get round this by strategically placing people, or altering your angle of view. Protocol Matters Now check on protocol, for example certain people will sit at the front centre and certain others beside them. For example the pipe band drum major often likes to sit or stand in the centre. Get this part arranged first and then ask all others to place themselves on your prearranged chairs. The group members will know, but do remember to ask. I'll now show you a way to save some valuable time, end up with a more marketable photograph, and lighten up the group ready for their shot! When you have arranged the group almost ready for the shot, ask each person to turn and inspect the one next to them for straight ties, dust on shoulder, squint badges and so on, have then preen each other and do your work for you. This saves you the potential for embarrassment through asking someone to make what for them what may be quite personal adjustment. Much easi...
As photographers, we obsess over light. How much of it, the direction it's coming from, the color and so on... Isn't the very WORD - photograph - ancient Greek for writing with light? (Photo = light, graph = to write) Maybe it's Latin, I'm doing this from memory. In our obsession, we buy studio lights so we can get more of it, at the right color and direction. We use multiple lights to eliminate unwanted shadows! And to add highlights. We buy reflectors to fill in the shadows and we bounce our - on camera - flash off the ceiling to avoid shadows on the walls. A quick search in any library or bookstore will show dozens (if not hundreds) of books and magazines devoted to controlling light. So far...I've never run across a book devoted to capturing shadows! But, isn't it the shadows that define mood? Picture in your mind, a photograph of a smokey New Orleans, jazz club. Was your mental photo in color or black and white? Probably black and white, but even if it was in color, was the room well lit - OR STEEPED IN SHADOW? When your subject is a little - shall we say, hefty - how do you tell them to dress for their portraits? In white? Or in black? In case you're new to photography, and know absolutely nothing about fashion, I'll tell you - it's black. Why? Because shadows define shape! If they are wearing white, all the shadows cast by their excess weight are clearly visible. Wearing black, the shadows aren't that visible and thereby a person look thinner. When you study the various lighting patterns, you'll see they are almost all defined by the shadows - not the light! Rembrandt, broad light, narrow light, split light, butterfly and so on...it's the way the shadows appear that determine the pattern. Without shadows, all lighting patterns would be the same! Wrinkles are defined by the shadows. That's why lights are always positioned directly in front of models - to eliminate any wrinkles. The same for blemishes. We mostly notice pock marks because of the shadows. So, when you are doing a portrait session, consider the shadows. What kind of mood are you after? Do they have wrinkles or blemishes that need to be filled in? Do they have a wide face that can be narrowed by shadowing one side? Photographs are on paper and are two dimensional, so the best photographers look for ways to include shadow. Can YOU add shadow to give the portrait depth and dimension? When you start to think about shadows as intensely as you do about the light, that's when your photography w...
The portrait market demand reaches enormous levels especially when the requirement is almost every household across the globe in every civilized country. Think about this from another angle - you could target every building and what is more exciting is that repeat business is almost incalculable. Parents love to have family portraits but some like to have it done annually as the children grow. Then they most often like to have a portrait of each child in addition to that. The opportunities become endless. Portrait photography is also a photography business that can be initiated from home. Often only requiring modest photography equipment, you'll only need several pieces of cloth (backdrop), a camera, some good lenses, two or maybe three lights and let's not forget the tripod. In addition to the equipment being modest by any ones standards, it is all reasonably lightweight and easy to handle should you need to work outdoors. The most important rule to remember is that it is a portrait, not necessarily of just the head, but the person, or group is the focal part of the picture, so it is important to take the photograph without any extraneous clutter. Because you will always be dealing with people with whom you have to maintain control, not as a tyrant, but you have to guide your subjects. Therefore a certain degree of self-confidence is necessary. If you are taking a formal portrait of a group of children it is necessary for you as the photographer to ensure that none of the children are making faces. This brings us to posing. Many photographers underate this essential requirement because posing will make or break your portraiture. There is much value in learning to guide people through various poses. Posing has an ongoing education requirement depending on age, gender, culture, promotion, product, and emotion needed for each piece of art etc. It is such an important and extensive subject that I've provided you with this downloadable guide which I think you should take seriously - Make Camera Friendly Posing Happen! When you have signed up a person for a photographic portrait take a few extra shots, and offer them as wallet or purse photographs at a smaller fee. You already have started the business, capitalise on it, few people can resist the feeling that they have got �something for nothing�. This may seem a waste of time; they can be important additives for your portfolio. Portrait photography has undergone many changes of style since the introduction of ...
Whether you're a photography newbie or you've been around the block a few times, it doesn't take long to learn that properly lighting a portrait subject can make a huge difference in the quality of the finished portrait. Thus begins the never ending torment. First, we wonder what kind of lighting patterns there are. We go to our local camera store and discover a book that discusses Rembrandt light. Then another guru says that narrow light is the way to go. But for each narrow light application, there's another time when broad light will do the trick. They talk about split light, backlight, hair light, fill, ambient. They use terms like main light, key light, fill, diffused, hot, continuous, strobe and so on... It's no wonder so many people throw up their hands in frustration. Then they light every subject the same tired old way. So then, we start to question - why bother? What difference does it make? We soon learn that wide faces can be visually narrowed, narrow faces can be visually widened, noses can be shortened, cheekbones can be raised. Not to mention - blemishes can be minimized, wrinkles softened and weight reduced. Then it finally hits. Lighting is important. We start to realize that being a photographer entails more than buying the latest digital gadget and spending countless hours in Photoshop. By now we are in information overload. Which way to turn? How many hundreds of dollars do we need to spend - buying all the latest magazines and photo books? There is an easier way. It's true that photo equipment is being improved all the time. Trying to keep up with all the most recent improvements in technology is impossibly difficult - but - peoples faces are pretty much the same now as they were 10 years ago, 50 years, 100. The best lighting patterns haven't changed. Rembrandt light is called that because Rembrandt used that lighting pattern! In the early 1600's! The point is, to learn the basic lighting patterns, old photo books work just as well as the new ones. You don't have to spend a fortune at the local camera store, book store or on line. Go to the library. It's free. Find a book that shows a lighting pattern you want to learn, check it out and go home. Now comes the expensive part. You need some flashlights. I mean the kind you hold in your hand. The kind you keep in the kitchen junk drawer. (Yes, the one that always has dead batteries when you need it.) You will also need a notebook. Now, for the fun part. Grab one of your kids, boyfriend, g...
A large portion of everybody's photo collection includes photos of people. There is no argument that high quality people portrait photos are impressive at projecting emotions and feelings and capturing the object's character forever. This article will provide you with tips for achieving such high quality portrait photos. Although achieving true high quality portrait photos is an art and requires experience there are some simple guidelines that you can follow in order to quickly improve your skills. Here are a few: Background: A high quality portrait photo or for that matter any photo that a person is in its center of attention should have a passive background that does not take away the attention from the object. Specifically a portrait photo is all about the object's face. Take your photos in a neutral background. A background that is comprised of soft solid colors is an example of a good background to use. A busy street or people moving around are examples of bad backgrounds to use. Blurring: Another way to make sure that the attention of the viewer is not divided between the object and the background is to blur the background details. Blurring the background will literally lift the object out of the photo and make it standout. The technique to blue the background is pretty simple you will need to set your camera to a shallow depth of field. You can do that by using a zoom lens and shooting from a short distance or with a wide aperture manual setting. The eyes: A face has many details, nose, eyes and so on. Which area of the face is important to focus on? The answer is simple, the eyes. The eyes tell a story they convey emotions, feelings, state of mind and focusing on them will make the photo better project all those feelings. Depending on the emotions and story that you are trying to convey through the photo guide your object to look straight to the camera or to look sideways maybe focusing on another object. Lighting: This is a pretty simple issue, whenever possible use natural lighting. Natural lighting is much better in capturing the full color range and warmth of the skin. Take your photos outdoors during the day. Position the object in a way that the sun light hits it from the side. Do not take photos with the sun behind the object as it will end up as a silhouette. Do not take photos with the sun right in front of the object as it will result in overexposure and color distortion. You can use a fill-in flash to compensate for some shadowing that m...
Picture the scene, you are on holiday and having a wonderful time. You want to document the moment for posterity. The best way is to take a picture. There are a few simple rules to travel photography that will allow you to capture those special moments in the best way possible. 1. Have the subject's permission If you find an interesting subject and want to take his/her picture it is not only inconsiderate but can actually go against somebody's belief or faith if you don't get their permission first especially if you are capturing their face. If you want to publish the photo or sell them then you may have to get the person to sign a release form too. 2. Lighting To shoot a good picture, light is very important. Unless you are a shooting a child when using a flashlight shining from below really can capture a child beautifully, but this technique is not flattering on older subjects. Soft light works much better. If they are indoors then daylight coming from a window or light coming from a reflector works best. If shooting outside, it is still advisable to use a little fill flash on the face, or if possible use a reflector (gold ones give a warmer light). If you want to add character to a portrait then using shadow can add a mystical quality. 3. Choosing a lens When choosing a lens, using an 80-100 tele lens (or zoom) works best for most portraits and helps get rid of unflattering details. When using a wide angle lens be sympathetic because this type of lens can really distort a face and really make some one nose appear quite large. 4. Angles Composition of a picture from an elevated position may be dramatic but the general rule is to hold the camera at the same height as your subjects head. Also take your subject into account as shooting from the front with the subject nose straight into the lens can make a big nose smaller. Whilst making a small nose larger can be achieved by shooting from a slight angle. 5. The depth of field In most cases you do not want the background to distract from the subject. If you use a tele lens it reduces the depth of field. You can reduce the field further if you shorten the exposure time and have a wider aperture. Many very good portraits only show the most important part of the face (usually the eyes) in focus. 6. Filters
This shutter speed may vary from model to model but the typical highest sync speed whether it is a Nikon or Canon camera these days is 1/250 or 1/200. You could use the equivalent exposures of 1/125 at f8, 1/60 at f11 and 1/30 at f16, but why would you? This is a portrait situation and you want the background to be as blurred out as possible. Besides, our mnemonic device, Seasoned Apples Smell Nutty to Blushing Bachelors, tells us to "Set Aperture to Small Number to Blur out Backgrounds." And to compensate for that large number f-stop or aperture, you should use your longest lens. If you take a picture with a telephoto versus a wide angle lens, you will find that the longer focal length lens blurs out the background more than a wide angle lens. Using the the built-in flash So after selecting your lens, you now decide you like the pretty warm light that you see on your subject. To maintain that "look," you will have to supplement or fill the shadow side of your subject's face. A reflector is perhaps the easiest fix if you have someone to hold it for you as you shoot. But unless you know beforehand that you'll have an extra set of hands, the more practical thing to do is to use flash. Most consumer grade digital SLRs like the Canon 20d, 40d, Rebel XTi or Nikon D40x, Nikon D200s have a built-in flash that pops up. They remind me of a crab's eye. To turn them on, you usually have to switch the camera to "Manual" mode, then press a button somewhere. On the Canon digital SLRs, that button is located near the red dot of your lens. When your little flash pops up, all you have to do is compose your picture and fire away. For those of you who want even more control, you can try this: 1. Push the button to illuminate the LCD panel on the top of your camera. 2. Press the Flash exposure compensation button. 3. Dial in the amount of fill flash you want. This is just a fancy way of telling your camera flash how much light "to kick into the scene." If you want to overpower the ambient light by one stop, all you have to do is to turn the Quick Dial on the back of your camera clockwise or to the right and the flash should overpower the ambient light setting by 1 or 2 stops with 1/3 stop increments. The camera figures out that how much power the flash needs to put out to fill the shadow side of the face without any fuss whatsoever. The picture above without fill flash is not too bad but if you were to print it, you'll see that you can't see your subjects face that's in shado...
A portrait photograph of high quality can mesmerize those who look at them, giving great insight into not only the subject's physical stature, but also their emotions and feelings. Such photographs will stand the test of time and be enjoyed by many generations. Experience taking photographs is a great factor in how good a portrait photograph will turn out. Professionals understand how to set the lighting, frame the subject and appropriately capture the mood of the occasion. Although you may not have that level of expertise, you too can take portrait photographs of high quality, if you keep these tips in mind: Background - Perhaps the most important consideration, but least considered, is the portrait's background. All photos with a person as the main focus should employ a subtle background that does not draw attention away from the person. The intent of a portait photo is the subject's face, so be sure to take such pictures that are composed in such a way as to not detract from it. Also, when considering color, choose a background that consists entirely of non-bold, preferably solid colors. Again, the rule of thumb is that any color that draws focus away from the person is a bad one. Lighting - Natural lighting must be used for portrait photographs, as it is much better at capturing skin tone and a person's full range of colors. These subtle differences are not picked up well by a flash. The best time to take the picture is during the day, outside, since at this time you can make full use of the sunlight. You will want to find a location in which the sunlight hits the object from the side. If you take a photo with the sun behind the object, it will not turn out well. What you will end up seeing is a silhouette of the person. Similarly, do not take photos with the sun in front of the subject, or you will end up with distorted colors and overexposure. Blurring - The first two tips are by far the most important, but this one is also quite helpful. The problem is that it can be tricky for non-experts. This technique involves blurring the details of the background. This will make the object appear to be separated from the background, seemingly projected outward towards you. To accomplish this feature, you will need to situate your camera to a shallow depth of field. To do that, use a zoom lens and take your shot from relatively nearby or with a widened aperture setting (manual). This might sound difficult, but once you figure it out it will seem easy. If possib...
Introduction Imagine yourself, camera in hand, walking through a busy metropolis. The sights, the sounds and the smells of a bustling city overwhelm your senses. People all around you are scurrying to and from work. Others are sitting in outdoor cafes enjoying lunch. You can see worn out shoppers, their hands filled with packages, moving from store to store. The city is alive with activity. As you survey the scene, you spot an elderly man across the street sitting alone in a wheelchair. He holds a small cup out and thoughtfully watches the activity. You're amazed at how seemingly invisible he is. No one gives him a second glance. In fact people seem to be going out of their way to avoid him. As you look further you notice that this poor man has no legs and is missing part of his left hand. You can also see that he has been wearing the same clothes for quite some time. Have you ever considered approaching someone like this for an urban portrait? If not, why not? It's easy to fall into a rut of photographing the same kind of stuff day in and day out. If you are a landscape or wildlife photographer, you may get up early for the sunrise and hike out to beautiful locations. Wedding photographers are all business on a bride's big day making sure to capture all the memorable moments. Sports photographers create compositions that help tell the story of how a game was won or lost. It is easy to get locked into one or two specific subsets of photography (especially if you're a professional photographer). Most of us began with a simple passion for photography. When I seriously starting taking pictures (using an old hand-me-down Canon SLR), I photographed everything in sight! My girlfriend at the time (now my wife) had to put up with me stopping every couple of minutes to take photographs. I know it drove her nuts (although she would never say so). I had no idea what I was doing, but I was passionate so I shot everything I laid my eyes on. Shooting urban portraits is a great way to shake things up and break out of the passionless photography rut we sometimes find ourselves in. In this guide, I am going to share how to create high impact urban portraits of perfect strangers. My experience centers on photographing homeless and destitute people; however I encourage you to read with an open mind as you can apply many of the same principles photographing virtually any stranger (homeless or not) in an urban setting. Remember Your Safety We can't have a discussion about appr...
another way to apply makeup is to paint the color on the face, and then change the layer style to �color� (it's near the bottom of the list). that way, it keeps all of the detail of the skin etc. and just changes the color. P.S. it will at first look like the way in the video - like a clown - but after changing the layer style it looks totally natural. make sure to do it on a duplicate layer, not the original.
[...] also a great model. If you missed part 1 & 2 of my Portrait Makeover series you can view part 1 here and part 2 here. You'll also notice that I didn't use the non destructive dodging and [...]
[...] model. If you missed part 1 & 2 of my Portrait Makeover series you can view part 1 here and part 2 here. You'll also notice that I didn't use the non destructive dodging and burning [...]
This Photoshop tutorial is written for experienced Photoshop users and will show you unique techniques for retouching photos. You???ll learn how to enhance backgrounds, dodge and burn, brighten eyes, and add hair shine while keeping a low count of layers. The techniques you learn from this tutorial can be used for other portrait photos.
This tutorial is the first in a series that will teach you a basic workflow for portrait retouching in Photoshop (some of the future tutorials will also work in Elements, but not this one). I will try to give you enough information to get good results without getting mired in pro-level details. Future posts will include blemish removal, teeth whitening, eye retouching, and so on, but before you do any of those things you need to fix the overall lightness and color. 1. Open a photo (Your next family Christmas card? A new Facebook profile picture?). Most photos will greatly benefit from the following simple adjustments. And unlike one-click automatic adjustments, the following method gives you customized control. Once you understand the basics, you can correct color with more precision or even stylize color in unexpected ways. I will be using this engagement photo: To be fair: Step 2 (in which you duplicate the background layer) is not strictly necessary in this tutorial, but I think that step should be automatic (for reasons that will be apparent in future tutorials), so you may as well practice good habits now. 2. Hit Command-J (PC: Ctrl-J) to duplicate the background layer. You will now see "layer 1" in your layers palette just above the background layer. Note: If the duplicate layer does not appear, double click on the word "background." This will bring up a dialog box to rename the layer and "unlock" it. Hit return to name it "layer 0" or you can rename it "original" or anything else. Some people do this as habit before duplicating a layer. 3. Open what is called a "curves adjustment layer" by clicking on the pull-down menu in the bottom of the layers palette: Once you have done that, you will see a new layer (which should be active) that looks like this: Notice that there is no thumbnail of your photo on your curves layer. That is because it does not actually contain your photo; it only contains the adjustments themselves. On the left side, that curvy line represents�surprise�the curves adjustment, and on the right, a layer mask (which will not be used in this tutorial (but for the curious: it allows you to selectively remove or "mask" adjustments). 4. Next, you will lighten or darken your photo on the curves adjustment layer to get better skin values. Double click the curve box on the left side of that layer to get a dialog box like this: It looks intimidating, but we are going to keep it easy. A quick explanation to demystify it: the horizontal axis ...
For this photo-art tutorial, we have chosen a rather difficult subject, the portrait of a beautiful woman, to put to the test the combinations of Photoshop tools and filters in creating a digital painting in the classical style of Madame X by John Singer Sergeant.
Now paste in a portrait photo of a woman into the center of your canvas. Be sure to cut out the woman from her original background using the lasso or pen tool selection tools. Name this layer 'woman photo'.
Trying to take pictures of our pets can be a nightmare especially if they are lively and refuse to pose nicely!. This image was very much a grab shot whilst our friend struggled to hold their Siamese cat, Kiki. However, with a little bit of thought and using Photoshop we can transform an image we may well have otherwise deleted.
Step 5. Now click on "face" layer and press Alt + Ctrl + Shift + ~. In this way you select all the highlighted areas of photo. With selection active go to the Create new adjustment layer and select Color Fill and for color enter this value #bc8f23. Set Blending mode of this layer to be Hue.
To quickly edit this image, I will not use Photoshop. Instead I will use Reshade Image Enlarger that will to the job as good as Photoshop if not even better. So, here are the settings that I've used:
Step 1.) Once you have opened your image, now you must duplicate your background layer by dragging your background layer to the 'Create New layer' button in your Layer Pallete or go to layer>duplicate layer.
Step 1.) Open your baby image, and duplicate the backgoround layer (Layer > Duplicate Layer), then apply adjustment curve (Image > Adjustments > Curves) to your new layer.