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17. Add a layer called "inner ring 2". Set the elliptical marquee tool to a fixed size of 88 wide by 88 high and click inside this last circle. Apply the same stroke as in 16.
[5]-Now your image should look as shown below.Thanks for read this Photoshop Tutorial I hope you have Enjoyed & the Final Output of this Tutorial is shown below
Intro: Make a Cat-eye lens of a normal human eye close-up. This technique can be applied to your photos or photos used for magazin covers, can be used for a lot of things really.
Here's a tutorial in order to be in control of a lens flare and be able to make adjustments at will after the implementation of it :
Lets create a dark gradient halo effect using lens correction filter. Though this is not the primary purpose of this filter but its a cool technique nevertheless.
Clearing Lenses Tutorial This tutorial will show you how to clear out a lens to give the car that altezza look.
Colored Lens Flare Tutorial This tutorial will show you how to change the color of your regular headlamp flare or HID flare to a stylized color of your own.
In a previous Photoshop effects tutorial, we looked at how to add a soft glow effect to a photo using a method that gave us the added bonus of increased image contrast and color saturation (see our Easy Soft Focus And Glow Effect tutorial for more information). What if you're already happy with the contrast and color saturation in your image and all you want is to recreate the sort of effect you could achieve with a soft focus camera lens or diffusion filter? In this tutorial, we'll look at a fast and easy way to add a more traditional soft focus lens effect to an image. The nice thing about creating this effect in Photoshop rather than with an actual soft focus lens is that Photoshop gives us complete control over the final result.
It's time to spice up your landscape photography with filters. Filters are used in photography to bring back an image to the way our eyes have perceived the original scene. Some times it's not possible for our cameras to record an exact scene - so we have to rely on the manufacturers of camera products. Filters also help us to create mood in our images and bring out the best in a scene. A small selection of filters is well worth packing when heading off for a trip. They don't take up too much space and will definitely add a bit of spice to your images. Filters work by being placed in front of your camera lens. You can also place several filters in front of your camera at any given time. Lets take a look at the most important ones to use. Neutral Density Filters (ND): Neutral Density filters will certainly help you with tough exposures. These filters work by cutting down the light that reaches your lens. These filters come in a variety of strengths with the most popular being 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 - these filters will help with exposure without affecting colour. One half of these filters is dark and the other is completely clear. They basically work by reducing brightness. The different numbers stand for the amount of brightness they reduce - 0.3 ND reduces light by one stop - 0.6 reduces light by 2 stops - 0.9 reduces light by three stops. Lets say you arrive at a high contrast scene, - you take a light reading of the sky and get an exposure reading of F/22 at 1/8 second; you take a reading from the ground in front of you and get a reading of F/22 at 1 second. This is a difference of three stops of light. You need to reduce the brightness of the sky. By using the 0.9 ND you will reduce the light in the sky by three stops without affecting the light hitting the ground in front of you. Polarizing Filters: A polarizing filter should be top of the list - a polarizing filter can be used with colour or black and white and is probably the most important filter on the market today. The polarizing filter will also darken the blue sky to give it a strong rich colour. It will make mist stand out and can be also used to give fast flowing water a misty effect. This filter is most effective with side lighting. Warm-up filters: In overcast conditions, don't put your camera away. This is an ideal time for you to switch your attention to landscape detail. On an overcast day images often appear cold and dull. Try using a warm-up filter. These filters will remove the dull effect ...
Your lens is an essential element to good photographs. It's not just your camera. People spend thousands of dollars on a good camera and neglect the lens. Change that around! Make sure you buy a good camera lens when purchasing a camera. Buy a good camera as well, but don't neglect a good camera lens. Why? Your camera is just the 'holder' for the photograph. The lens is what your camera sees all your shots through. A good lens is essential to clear and sharp photos. With most compact digital cameras, you can't change the lens. So in that case, don't just buy a good camera, ensure it also has a good lens. Avoid a plastic digital camera lens because it doesn't have the clarity of a glass lens. What model of lens? Stick with camera lenses from well known manufacturers like Nikon, Canon and Pentax. Ensure you purchase a lens that works with your camera too. A Nikon camera lens usually won't work well with a Canon camera. There are specialty lens manufacturers like Carl Zeiss, Leica and Leupold. If you're a beginner, don't worry about these lenses until you are more advanced as they come with very high prices and it's hard to justify the price for the small increase in quality. Types of Camera Lens The most common lenses are : Wide Angle, Normal and Telephoto. The type of lens is determined by the Focal Length of the lens. See below. A Zoom Lens is simply a lens that can change Focal Length from a Wide Angle to a Telephoto (or somewhere inbetween). There are a number of things to look for when purchasing a camera lens. Lens Focal Length The Focal Length of a lens determines the amount of magnification and angle of vuew the lens can see. The Focal Length is measured in mm. It's the Focal Length that determines if the lens is a: - Wide Angle; small magnification, wide angle of view. 20mm to 35mm - Traditional, or Normal; 50mm - Telephoto; high magnification, narrow angle of view; 105mm to 300mm. - Zoom; A Zoom lens can change it's focal length to zoom in. A Zoom lens might have a Focal Length of between 50mm and 150mm. Some lenses are interchangeable between film cameras and digital cameras, but you need to be aware that the effective focal length CHANGES between film and digital. The focal lengths I describe above are for FILM cameras and need to be multiplied by 1.6 to get the effective focal length on a digital camera. So using a film 35mm lens on a digital camera has an effective focal length of 56mm. What does this mean for you? It means that you won't get a...
Photography is all about capturing light on a photographic emulsion or electronic sensor. And as such the lens and film or sensor, are the most important components affecting image quality. Essentially, the camera itself is just a light-tight box with a shutter! You've seen the wonderful pictures from the rovers sent by NASA to Mars. All detailed and colourful. You might think that they're from some huge megapixel space-age techno-beast and you'd be surprised to hear that the sensor is a paltry 1 megapixel. Bigger pixels mean less noise which is always a good thing, but where NASA put all its money was into a very high quality lens. The results show it was worth it! A camera that allows you to change the lens will obviously give you the greatest flexibility to pick the appropriate lens for the situation. An ideal camera like this is the SLR. You can choose from super wideangle to super telephoto. Macro for close ups. Bellows for even closer close up. Attach it to a microscope. Attach it to a telescope. PRIMES VS ZOOMS Prime (fixed) focals have the advantage of being fast (bright) and very high quality by virtue of the fact that they can be designed just for that focal length. A zoom lens allows a choice from a continuous range of focal lengths. They are useful where you require a range of focal lengths but want the convenience of a single lens, whether for weight (only one lens), always being ready to take the picture or shooting in a dusty environment and you want to keep debris entering the camera to a minimum (you also need to think about how to change films). This all sounds great but there are drawbacks. Zooms are slower than primes (smaller minimum aperture) and can thus make hand holding and focusing (whether manual or auto) problematic. Also due to their complexity zoom lenses suffer from more abberations than primes. Lenses from the major camera makers tend to be very good. Third party zooms vary considerably. Like everything else, you tend to get what you pay for. Zooming is more than just getting closer. It alters the focal length and affects the perspective and depth of field of the picture. Consider whether you should zoom in and use a longer focal length, or get closer and use a shorter focal length? FOCAL LENGTHS Standard Lenses (~50mm) A standard lens is the usual lens supplied with an SLR. They are good general purpose lenses having an angle of view close to the human eye. They are sharp, compact and lightweight. Small "standard" zooms hav...
The importance and usefulness of a skylight filter cannot be overestimated. Everyone should have at least one. Preferably, they should have one for every lens they own. These should be permanently fixed to the filter thread. Skylight filters are cheap, freely available and come in various filter thread sizes. This means that everyone can afford one and there will be a filter to fit every lens (or almost). The primary function of a skylight filter is to cut down excessive UV rays which, in turn, make scenes in the distance appear to have a blue haze. The filter effectively reduces the haze and blue colour cast. Pictures of hills and mountains in the distance look clearer. The secondary function, and why you should have one on each lens, is that of protection. Like a lens cap, the skylight filter fits over the front of the lens and helps to prevent the ingress of dirt and dust. It also protects the lens from the effects of oily and greasy fingers, stick hands and from accidental knocks. It is much cheaper to replace a skylight than it is to replace a damaged lens. The filter is very light and has no effect on the exposure value needed for your photography (they do not stop the normal amounts of light getting in). Eric Hartwell runs the photography resource site http://www.theshutter.co.uk and the associated discussion forums as well as the regular weblog at http://thephotographysite.blogspot.com Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Hartwell
The purpose of filters in a camera is fundamentally the same as filters in other tools: trapping dirt or large, undesirable particles. Camera filters, though, help to produce many desirable effects and enhanced looks in photographs. Professional photographers usually have more than one filter packed together with their large lenses. Even for amateurs, it is helpful to have a few different filters on hand. To be effective, a camera filter must be aligned with the lens. A transparent optical element is designed to modify the light that comes through the lens when the shutter opens. As a result, we see improved quality in pictures. Moreover, a filter can also protect the lens, particularly from salt air that with too much exposure would destroy it. Both film and digital cameras use the same kind of filter; though digital have some other considerations. For example, digital cameras have a greater tendency to blow out highlights. As such, polarizers may be helpful to lessen contrast. Additionally, ordinary UV filters are no longer needed because digital cameras are ultraviolet light sensitive. And infrared filters are also easier to use. Some Filter Types There are many types of camera filters, each with their own set of purposes. 1. Ultraviolet (UV) filters absorb ultraviolet light. Ultraviolet is invisible light, and film cameras are more sensitive to it than digital cameras. At elevated locations, ultraviolet light is particularly dense; this density is due to the thin atmospheric layer. UV light produces haze that can cause photo details to regress as the subject moves farther away. The viewing and focusing of images can also be difficult. 2. Infrared filters reduce visible light. When capturing aerial haze penetration and heat effects, infrared filters are helpful. This kind of filter absorbs visible light and transmits only the infrared light to the lens of the camera. 3. Natural density (ND) filters can be used to obtain proper exposure in high intensity lighted surroundings. It is also used to produce a specific opening of the lens for image sharpness and absorbs light evenly from the visible range. In effect, ND filters alter light exposure, even without changing the lens opening. 4. Polarized filters enhance contrast, reflection, and color control. Compared to other filters, they are built on different optical principles. In just one vibratory direction, a polarized filter allows light to pass through. This kind of filter can be aligned in many ways, ...
This week I've been asked a barrel of questions! I'm very lucky to have such a loyal group of subscribers. One the questions I was asked was from John about digital camera cleaning and what sort of digital camera cleaning equipment did he need (a different John to last week). Well don't do what I did before I knew anything about photography. It's embarrassing, but I'll tell you anyway. I was standing at a beautiful beach one balmy, Aussie summers dusk and there was a rush of wind. It blew sand all over me and onto the digital camera. Knowing 'zip' about digital camera care and maintenance at the time I cleaned the lens with the corner of my t-shirt and went on my merry way. When I arrived home that night I took out my digital camera to download the images to the computer and out fell small particles of sand onto the floor. I thought �what the..?� I was surprised to see so many grains. I took off the lens cap and there were sand granules embedded into the edge of the lens. And that particular digital camera lens has never retained the same sharpness and clarity since my various trips to the beach. After a while the sand granules on the lens caused the annoying lack of quality that I previously had. I've done a lot of dumb things in my time with digital photography from not knowing any better, and that was a doozy. Thankfully I learnt and am now teaching digital photography. Camera care and cleaning is a regular thing you should give your digital camera. And the best way to clean a lenes? Carefully! This is why you should never take the edge of your t-shirt and clean it because unbeknownst to you, you could be leaving tiny trails of grit and dirt on the lens causing scratching. Remember all digital camera lenses are made of glass. The clarity and sharpness you get in your digital photos relies heavily on the surface of that glass to be squeaky clean. Nothing must get onto the lens if you can help it. Its pretty hard to keep a lens 100% clean because of dust particles floating around in the air, but you can get as close to100% as possible with some handy digital photography camera cleaning equipment. There are a couple of ways you can clean your digital cameras lens, and that's with a bit of spit�..just kidding. Seriously, you must use a proper lens cleaning cloth. You can use cleaning fluid too. This can cause some streaking across the lens if you use too much. One drop on your lens cleaning cloth in a gentle circular motion with a will get most marks off a ...
So I recently decided to buy some new equipment for my camera -- lenses specifically. It took me almost a full week to go through this, so I'll share my learnings in attempts to make it a little easier on those of you in the same boat. Here is the process I followed when choosing a new lens. 1. Determine Your Budget. Before you start swaying your judgment, set a limit to the amount of money you're willing to spend. This will help you narrow your search. I set my limit at $1000. 2. Determine What Type of Lens You Want. The main categories of lenses are: fish-eye, super-wide, wide, standard, telephoto, super-telephoto, and macro (there are other specialty lenses too). Most of those categories can also be split into prime and zoom lenses. You might know exactly what you want, or you might just narrow it down to 2 or 3. I narrowed my search down to super-wide zooms, super-telephoto zooms, and prime macros. My definition of each type is as follows: -Fish-eye: For hemispherical images typically less than 16mm in focal length. -Super-Wide: Less than 20mm focal length. -Wide: 20-30mm focal length. -Standard: 30-50mm focal length. -Telephoto: 50-200mm focal length. -Super-Telephoto: Greater than 200mm focal length. -Macro: Capable of creating 1:1 or greater magnification. -Prime: Fixed focal length. -Zoom: Variable focal length. 3. Make Your Wishlist. Go to your favorite online lens source and create a wishlist for each type of lens you are thinking about. Then go shopping and find ALL the lenses that are offered for your camera that fit into your categories. Filter out your selections by dropping anything over your absolute budget threshold. I found 9 super-wides, 8 super-telephotos, and 4 macros-- but I included primes and zooms. 4. Prioritize Your Options. Start sorting your lenses based on the information at hand, your intuition, and any cost criteria you may have. Typically, the more expensive lenses are also the better quality lenses (aside from price differences of around $100). My advice is to buy the best you can afford and you'll never be disappointed. 5. Pick Your Flavor. Do it now or do it later, but if you have more than one type of lens you want, you'll have to choose at some point. If you do it now you'll save some time with the research. I decided to leave my options open -- I couldn't decide yet. 6. Do the Research. You want outside opinions and evaluations on each of the lenses you're thinking about, an...
While the 50mm fast prime lenses are the most popular, they are not the only focal length available. There is the brilliant Sigma 20mm f/1.8, available in mounts for Canon, Nikon, Sony and Sigma, as well as expensive telephoto lenses like the Nikon 200mm f/2 or the Canon 135mm f/2L. The Nikon and Canon �portrait lens� solutions are generally a fast 85mm prime, such as the 85mm f/1.4D or f/1.8D in Nikon mounts or the Canon 85mm f/1.2L or f/1.8. There is also an expensive Zeiss manual focus 85mm f/1.4 lens of very high quality available in Nikon or Pentax mounts, with an auto focus model for Sony cameras.